TTHif wmBMicnn mmm joumr^KLr. 



349 



Honey l«r l».ysi>«' |H it's. — The New 



York Tribune ot May 7, bas the following 

 item under its apfricultural heading : 



A correspondent of Olctmmrjs in Bee- 

 Culture queries as to whether dyspeptics, 

 or those with vvliom "honey doesn't agree," 

 ever tried heating extracted honey to the 

 boiling point before eating. He (weak of 

 digestion) found he could use it in this way 

 with less unpleasant after clt'ect. However, 

 certain persons cannot seeui to indulge in 

 this luxury without annoying result, 

 though they might, perhaps, by slow de- 

 grees, school the stomach to accept of it, 

 and in some cases it is probably the swal- 

 lowed comb that makes the trouble. 



We should advise the use of milk, when 

 the honey disagrees with a weak stomach. 

 Milk assists digestion, and drinking either 

 sour milk (clabber) or butter-milk, is very 

 beneficial in cases of indigestion. It simply 

 tones up the stomach, while the use of 

 honey will give warmth to the system, 

 arouse nervous energy, and give vigor to 

 all the vital functions. Milk and honey are 

 grand things for poor humanity. 



FaslciiiiisFoiiiidHlion in Brood- 

 Frames siiid Si'clions. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Susquehanna Co. Convention.— 



The report of the recent meeting of this 

 bee-association is thus condensed by the 

 Secretary : 



The Susquehanna County, Bee-Keepers' 

 Association metatHopbottom, Pa., on May 

 3, 1890, and various subjects pertaining to 

 bee-culture were discussed. H. H. Brown, 

 of Columbia county, being present by invi- 

 tation, cheerfully answered any questions 

 which those present saw fit to ask. The 

 following officers were elected for the com- 

 ing year : President, E. B. Smith, of New 

 Milford; Vice-President, C. J. Haight, of 

 Rush; Secretary and Treasurer, H. M. 

 Seeley, of Harford. The following is the 

 number of colonies in the fall and spring, 

 as represented by those present : 

 _,. ., Fall. Spring. 



W. Johnson Baker 54 54 



W.A.Green 36 34 



S. A. Shook 52 51 



P. R. Philips 7 7 



Manley Mackey 7 7 



D. C. Westbrook 11 11 



C.E.Snyder 38 37 



A.S.Taylor 43 40 



E. P. Mack 8 8 



John Buck 15 14 



Bela Griffin 75 75 



H. M. Seeley 34 23 



Mrs. N. Conrad 39 38 



C. J. Haight 173 170 



E.B.Smith 44 41 



A. G. Brush 90 90 



G. A. Wright 175 135 



F. W. Dean 81 75 



G. W. Tiffanv 40 40 



T. J.Tififanv." 17 17 



C.D.Bennett 39 38 



Harford, Pa. H. M. Seelet, Sec. 



1^" We want of Volume 3 of the 

 Amekicax Bee Journal— July, 1866, to 

 June, 1867. Any one having it for sale 

 may send us a postal card, saying what 

 he will take for it. Do not send any 

 numbers before we order them, for we only 

 need one set. 



Clul>!« of 5 New Subscriptions for $4.00, 

 to any addresses. Ten for $7.50, if all are 

 sent at one time. 



Query 708.— 1. How do you fasten foun- 

 dation starters in brood-frames? 2. How 

 do you fasten them in sections; — Penn. 



1. By the use of melted wax. 2. By use 

 of the Parker foundation fastener. — A. J. 

 Cook. 



1. I fasten them on wires. 3. By means 

 of the Clark foundation fastener. — C. C. 

 Miller. 



1. I have never used starters in brood- 

 frames ; with us, it has been full sheets or 

 nothing. 3. With melted was. — Mrs. L. 

 Harrison. 



1. I use wired frames altogether, and 

 have no trouble. 3. I fasten in what few 

 sections I use with the little Parker fast- 

 ener.— J. E. Pond. 



1. By the use of the Eclipse foundation 

 fastener. See Dadant's revision of Lang 

 stroth's book, page 375. 2. The Gray foun- 

 dation fastener is preferable to any that I 

 have seen. — J. M. Hambaugh. 



1. We use full sheets in our brood-frames, 

 and fasten them in with melted wax and 

 rosin. 2. We use a Giwits press for fasten- 

 ing full sheets of foundation in sections.— 

 C. H. Dibbern. 



We use a common pocket-knife, using a 

 slot to guide the knife ; or better, we use 

 the Hambaugh roller to press it on. Every 

 bee-man has his own way. — Dadant & Son. 



1. By pressing firmly the foundation 

 against the triangular comb-guide. I have 

 all my frames with this guide. 2. Have a 

 pan of melted wax at hand to dip the edge 

 of the starter in, a.ud then apply to the sec- 

 tion. With me, this plan is more satisfac- 

 tory than the foundation fastener. — J. P. 

 H. Brown. 



1. I make my foundation on wired 

 frames, in a Given press, and run melted 

 beeswax along the top-bar to make all 

 secure. 2. With a Parker fastener ; but if 

 I made a businessot producing comb hone.Y, 

 I would use Clark's, as recently improved. 

 — A. B. Mason. 



I have a contrivance of my own for fast- 

 ening foundation in frames and sections, 

 which I prefer to any other that I have 

 seen. By it the wax is melted at the edge, 

 and suddenly crowded against the wood. 

 If done with any care at all, the fastening 

 is perfect. In brood-frames I use wire, in 

 addition. — R. L. Taylor. 



1. The top-bar has a saw cut ^5 of an 

 inch deep ; the foundation is placed in this 

 slot, and fastened with melted wax and 

 rosin. 2. For sections, I use a machine 

 that fastens the foundation with a hot iron; 

 with it, starters or whole sheets can be put 

 in faster, better and cheaper than by any 

 other way that I know of. — H. D. Cutting. 



1. In doing this, I have a block .iust half 

 the width of the frame, which will just fit 

 inside of it nicely. Then I have a thin but 

 strong knife (made of some hard variety of 

 wood), with which the foundation is firmly 

 pressed against the thin strip of wood, 

 which projects from the top of the frame. 

 The foundation should be kept in a warm 

 place until used ; and the knife occasion- 

 ally dipped in honey. 2. For sections, I 

 use, with perfect satisfaction, the Parker 

 foundation fastener. — Will M. Barnum. 



1 . Sometimes in one way, and sometimes 

 in another. Usually, by laying the founda- 

 tion flat on the under side of the top bar, 

 and tacking on it a thin strip of wood, and 

 then bending the foundation against the 

 edge of the strip, so that it will hang per- 

 pendicular. 2. By dipping the edge of the 

 starter in a melted mixture of beeswax and 

 rosin.— M. Maiiin. 



1. I use a frame-holder to keep the frame 

 in proper position, and press the edge of 

 the starter fast to the top liar with a com- 

 mon putty-knife. The starter is then bent 

 to the proper position. Full sheets are 

 fastened in tlie same way, except they are 

 treated to warm wax on the opposite side, 

 to prevent the tendency to peal off when 

 weighted with bees. 3. I use an improved 

 "Parker fastener," of my own devising, 

 that does the work effectivelj' and rapidly. 

 — G. W. Demaree. 



To fasten foundation in brood-frames or 

 sections, and do it expeditiously, requires 

 skill and practice by any method to do it 

 as it should be done. If there is a more 

 rapid, economical, or better method than 

 the one given in my new book, by the use 

 of melted beeswax and a suitable camel's- 

 hair bru-sh, I should like to know it. At all 

 events, fastening the foundation in 200 

 sections per hour is fast enough.— G. L. 

 Tinker. 



1. If whole sheets are used, wired frames 

 are best. If only starters, melted beeswax 

 used as with sections. 2. I have tried va- 

 rious foundation fasteners, but never any 

 plan has succeeded better than a basin of 

 melted beeswax kept at the proper tem- 

 perature over a lamp. A block half as 

 thick as the section is wide, and nearly as 

 large as the section when folded, nailed on 

 a larger one. A small brush is kept in the 

 melted wax. With one stroke, the starter 

 can be fastened in so thoroughly that not 

 one in a'thousand falls. The work can be 

 done quite rapidly, too. — Eugene Secor. 



I have always fastened foundation start- 

 ers in brood-frames with a putty-knife. My 

 employe will put on from 75 to 100 per 

 hour, and put them in nicely. We have a 

 little wooden form fixed to support the 

 frame just right, and adjust the foundation 

 to the right place in the frame. Probably, 

 if I was beginning in the liusiness, and 

 using foundation-guides, rather than full 

 sheets on wires, as I do use, I should use a 

 large fastener, made upon the lever princi- 

 ple, the same as the Parker, which is the 

 one we use for putting foundation in sec- 

 tions. Right here let me digress to say, 

 that a foundation-guide 4 or 5 cells wide, 

 liefore it is mashed on, and 3 or 4 cells after 

 being mashed on, is much better than a 

 guide 2 or 3 inches wide. Try both ways, 

 and you will see the reason why. — James 

 Heddon. 



1. If the top-bar of the frames is triangu- 

 lar, cut in the upper edge of a pile of the 

 foundation, with a sha."p knife about an 

 inch from the top edge, and from one end 

 to the other about 2 inches apart. Then 

 take a sheet and bend each alternate piece 

 thus cut forward, and bend back the other 

 alternate pieces; then these will fit over 

 the thin edge of ■ the V top-bar. Press into 

 the wood with a knife, chisel, or any suit- 

 able tool. 2. Use a Parker foundation 

 fastener. — The Editor. 



If any one wants a club of two or 

 more weekly or monthly periodicals, be- 

 sides one or both of our Journals — send us 

 a Postal Card, and we will then quote the 

 lowest possible price, by return mail. The 

 number is too gi-eat to enumerate. 



