race 



f\ V f\ 



DOWN THE ATHABASCA. 23 



Late in the afternoon the first rapid of the trip was 

 sighted, but the water being high we had no difficulty 

 in running it. In the evening camp was made on a 

 beautiful sandy beach. During supper-time we had 

 a visit from an old Cree Indian, who came paddling up 

 the river in a little bark canoe. Of course he landed at 

 our camp, for it is a principle strictly observed by every 

 Indian to lose no opportunity of receiving hospitalities, 

 and in accordance with his ideas of propriety, refresh- 

 ments were given him. He received them as those of his 

 usually receive all favors, as no more than his right, 

 and without a smile or the least visible expression of 

 pleasure, seated himself by the fire to enjoy them. 



On the following morning the great walls of ice, which 

 we had been passing for miles, began to disappear as the 

 channel of the river became wider. At about 9.30 we 

 reached a place known as the Rapid of the Jolly Fool. 

 It is said to have received its name from the fact that at 

 one time an awkward canoeman lost his life by allowing 

 his canoe to be smashed upon the most conspicuous rock 

 in the rapid. We wasted no time examining it, as it was 

 reported to be an easy one, but keeping near the left 

 bank, headed our little crafts into the rushing waters. 



o 



We had descended only a short distance, and were turn- 

 ing a bend in the stream, when, a little ahead of us, my 

 brother noticed moving objects on the shore. One of the 

 men said they were wolves, while others maintained they 

 were bears, but my brother getting his rifle in readiness, 

 cut the discussion short by demanding silence. As we 

 swept swiftly down with the current, the objects were 

 seen to be a moose deer and her calf. Having no fresh 

 meat on hand, these new-found acquaintances were hailed 



