Ill 



PORT SAID 



THE time of times to approach Port Said is just 

 at the fall of dusk. Then the sea lies in opal- 

 escent patches, and the low shores fade away into 

 the gathering night. Slanting masts and yards of 

 the dhows silhouette against a sky of the deepest 

 translucent green; and the heroic statue of De Les- 

 seps standing forever at the Gateway he opened, 

 points always to the mysterious East. 



The rhythmical, accustomed chug of the engines 

 had fallen to quarter speed, leaving an uncanny 

 stillness throughout the ship. Silently we slipped 

 between the long piers, drew up on the waterside 

 town, seized the buoy, and came to rest. All around 

 us lay other ships of all sizes, motionless on the inky 

 water. The reflections from their lights seemed to 

 be thrust into the depths, like stilts; and the few 

 lights from the town reflected shiveringly across. 

 Along the waterfront all was dark and silent. We 

 caught the loom of buildings; and behind them a 

 dull glow as from a fire, and guessed tall minar- 



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