PORT SAID 



portico the variegated and picturesque loungers. 

 Across the way a phonograph bawled; our stringed 

 orchestra played "The Dollar Princess"; from some- 

 where over in the dark and mysterious alleyways 

 came the regular beating of a tom-tom. The mag- 

 nificent and picturesque town car with its gaudy raga- 

 muffins swayed by in train of its diminutive mule. 



Suddenly our persistent and amusing entourage 

 vanished in all directions. Standing idly at the 

 portico was a very straight, black Soudanese. On 

 his head was the usual red fez; his clothing was of 

 trim khaki; his knees and feet were bare, with blue 

 puttees between; and around his middle was drawn 

 close and smooth a blood-red sash at least a foot 

 and a half in breadth. He made a fine upstanding 

 Egyptian figure, and was armed with pride, a short 

 sheathed club, and a great scorn. No word spoke he, 

 nor command; but merely jerked a thumb toward the 

 darkness, and into the darkness our many-hued horde 

 melted away. We were left feeling rather lonesome ! 



Near midnight we sauntered down the street to 

 the quai, whence we were rowed to the ship by 

 another turbaned, long-robed figure who sweetly 

 begged just a copper or so "for poor boatman. " 



We found the ship in the process of coaling, every 

 porthole and doorway closed, and heavy canvas 

 hung to protect as far as possible the clean decks. 



23 



