Pampas of Buenos Ayres to Tucuman, 9 



the tropa was preparing to cross an Arroy, where meeting two 

 other tropas on their way to Buenos Ayres^ we made a very 

 grand appearance from the union of such a large number of 

 cattle, &c., and six hours of time were lost before we again re- 

 sumed our road. Morros is a small straggling village with a 

 population of from 400 to 500 persons, and a respectable look- 

 ing little church : excellent wheat, maize, and pumpions are 

 raised in this neighbourhood, these being the chief articles of 

 produce to which the farmer directs his attention. 



While passing the Arroy I spent some of the leisure time 

 which was thus afforded me in examining its marshy sides, 

 in search of any new or rare plants, and my disappointment in 

 this first attempt proved but too true an omen of the slender 

 share of success which attended my journey. The tropa had 

 hardly resumed its march on a good road, when they proceeded 

 at the rate of about two miles an hour, than the approach of 

 sunset warned them to halt for the night, and then the whole 

 party dispersed to gather dry thistles, withered straw and 

 herbage, or any material with which a fire can be lighted to 

 cook their victuals. This process is very quickly and sum- 

 marily performed ; often have I seen the animal on foot help- 

 ing to draw the waggon, and killed, flayed, roasted and swal- 

 lowed in less than two hours ! Dry grass is often the only 

 fuel that can be procured : the men divide into parties, four 

 to each mess ; the portion of beef is handed to them ; and they 

 generally cook it by sticking it on an iron rod which they fix 

 in the ground and lean over the smoky fire. Then each indi- 

 vidual pulls off his singed and bloody portion, severing it 

 partly with his knife and partly with his greased and gory 

 fingers ; and with unwashed hands and filthy beard, enjoys 

 his half-raw meal, devoured without bread, vegetables or salt, 

 in as much comfort and with greater health than does the 

 London epicure his highly seasoned and varied feast. 



Many of the people who accompany these tropas have been 

 born in them and know no other home than a cart or waggon, 

 nor can do anything save driving and tormenting the poor 

 animals committed to their charge ; he being esteemed the 

 cleverest fellow who can make his bullocks cry loudest with 

 the tortures he inflicts. It cannot be wondered at that they 



