426 Information respecting Botmiical Travellers. 



level of the sea, and 1950 above that of the plains. The village 

 extends some distance along the ridge, as well as a little way down 

 its northern face. The centre of the ridge is kept as a sort of arena 

 for manly exercises ; about this space there occur some picturesque 

 simool trees, and a few fig trees, among which is the banyan. 



During our long stay at this place we had many opportunities of 

 forming acquaintance with the Soobah, as well as with the imme- 

 diately adjoining part of his district. We found this almost uncul- 

 tivated, and overrun with jungle. No large paths were seen to point 

 out that there are many villages near Dewangari ; in fact the only 

 two which bear marks of frequent communication, are that by which 

 we ascended, and one which runs eastward to a picturesque village 

 about half a mile distant, and which also leads to the plains. 



The Soobah we found to be a gentlemanly unassuming man ; he 

 received us in a very friendly manner and with some state ; the room 

 was decently ornamented, and set off in particular by some well- 

 executed Chinese religious figures, the chief of which we were told 

 represented the Dhurma Rajah, whose presence even as a carved 

 block was supposed to give infallibility. We M^ere besides regaled 

 with blasts of music. His house was the most picturesque one that 

 I saw, and had some resemblance, particularly at a distance, to the 

 representations of some Swiss cottages. It was comparatively small, 

 but as he was of inferior rank, his house was of inferior size. 



The population of the place must be considerable ; it was during 

 our stay much increased by the Kampa people, who were assembling 

 here prior to proceeding to Hazoo. Most of the inhabitants are 

 pure Booteas ; many of them were fine specimens of human build, 

 certainly the finest I saw in Bootan : they were, strange to say, in 

 all cases civil and obliging. Cattle were tolerably abundant, and 

 principally of that species known in Assam by the name of Mithans; 

 they were taken tolerable care of, and picketed in the village at 

 night : some, and particularly the bulls, were very fine, and very 

 gentle. Ponies and mules were not uncommon, but not of extraor- 

 dinary merits. Pigs and fowls were abundant. The chief commu- 

 nication with the plains is carried on by their Assamese subjects, 

 who are almost entirely Kucharees : they bring up rice and putrid 

 dried fish, and return with bundles of manjistha. 



On the 23rd, after taking a farewell of the Soobah, who gave us 

 the Dhurma's blessing, and as usual decorated us with scarfs, we left 

 for Rydang, the halting-house between Dewangari and Khegumpa, 

 and distant eight miles from the former place. We reached it late 

 in the evening, as we did not start until after noon. We first de- 



