426 THE FARMER'S AND 



the end red-hot, and plunging it into cold water ; then 

 grind the point quite sharp on a grindstone, and afterward 

 on an oil stone. Then, with the point of this tool, pick 

 repeatedly on the spot to be bored, taking care not to use 

 too much violence, lest the object should break. In a 

 short time, or in a few minutes, by a continuance of the 

 operation, a small conical piece will be forced out, not 

 bigger than a pin's head, and the hole may afterward be 

 widened, by introducing the point, and working the file 

 round. 



The best cement for broken china or glass, is that sold 

 under the name of the diamond cement, which is color- 

 less, and resists moisture. This is made by soaking 

 isinglass in water till it is soft, and then dissolving it in 

 proof spirit. Add to this a little gum ammoniac, or gal- 

 banum and mastic, both dissolved in as little alcohol as 

 possible. When the cement is to be used, it must be 

 gently liquefied, by placing the phial containing it in 

 boiling water. The phial must be well closed by^a good 

 cork, not by a glass stopper, as this may become fixed. 

 It is applied to the broken edges with a camel's-hair pencil. 



When the objects are not to be exposed to moisture, 

 white of egg alone, or mixed with finely-sifted quicklime 

 will answer pretty well. Shell-lac, dissolved in spirits of 

 wine, is better. 



A very strong cement for earthenware is made by boil- 

 ing slices of skim-milk cheese with water, into a paste, 

 and then grinding it with quicklime in a marble mortar, 

 or on a slab with a mallet. 



CUTTING GLASS. 



Panes, or flat pieces of glass, may be divided, when a 

 glazier's diamond is not at hand, by making a notch with 

 a file, and carrying a piece of hot charcoal in the line in 

 which it is wished the fracture should proceed. The 



