THE EMIGRANT'S HAND-BOOK. 431 



useful as part of ship stores, being less liable to spoil on 

 a sea voyage than richer cheese, particularly in a warm 

 climate ; on the subject of skim-milk cheese Dr. Anderson, 

 celebrated for his writings on agriculture, observes, that it 

 is an erroneous idea to suppose that the agreeable taste of 

 cheese depends solely upon the quantity of oily or fat mat- 

 ter it may contain. Parmesan cheese is made of skim- 

 milk ; so are the Dutch cheeses, which many consider as 

 very pleasant tasted. He has seen cheese made of skim- 

 milk, that ate exactly like the finest cream cheese ; 

 and he considers that what is called richness in cheese, 

 depends as much upon the particular mode in which they 

 are manufactured, as upon the materials of which cheese 

 consists. In confirmation of this opinion he remarks, that 

 though the taste of Double Gloucester differs so much 

 from Cheshire cheese, yet they are both made from the 

 same kind of milk. 



Parmesan Cheese. This most celebrated of all cheese 

 is made in the duchy of Parma and Piacenza, and in va- 

 rious parts of Lombard y : at present, the district of Lpdi 

 is in high repute for it. It was formerly supposed to be 

 made from goat's milk, and the high flavor which it has, 

 is supposed by some to be owing to the rich herbage of 

 the meadows of the Po, where the cows are pastured ; and 

 by others, solely to the process by which it is manufac- 

 tured, a particular account of which may be seen in 

 Cadell's "Journey in Italy, 1818." Half the milk has 

 stood sixteen or seventeen hours, and the other half has 

 stood only six. The milk is heated and coagulated in a 

 cauldron ; and without being taken out of the cauldron, 

 the curd is broken very small by an implement consisting 

 of a stick with cross wires ; it is again heated, or rather 

 scalded, till the curd, now a deposition from the whey, 

 has attained a considerable degree of firmness ; it is then 

 taken out, drained, salted, and pressed ; and in forty days 



