473 



fn ice. and comes from the Scotch and Irish rivers, and 

 though quite fresh, is not equal to the Thames salmon. 



Mackerel must be perfectly fresh, or it is a very indif- 

 ferent fish ; it will neither bear carriage, nor being kept 

 many hours out of the water. The firmness of tne flesh, 

 and the clearness of the eyes, must be the criterion of 

 fresh mackerel, as they are of all other fish. 



Herrings can only be eaten when very fresh, and, like 

 mackerel, will not remain good many hours after they 

 are caught. 



Fresh-water Jish. The remarks as to firmness and 

 clear fresh eyes, apply to this variety of fish, of which 

 there are carp, tench, pike, perch, eels, etc. 



Lobsters, recently caught, have always some remains 

 of muscular action in the claws, which may be excited 

 by pressing the eyes with the finger ; when this cannot 

 be produced, the lobster must have been too long kept. 

 When boiled, the tail preserves its elasticity if fresh, but 

 loses it as soon as it becomes stale. The heaviest lobsters 

 are the best; when light, they are watery and poor. 



Crab and crayfish must be chosen by observations simi- 

 lar to those given above in the choice of lobsters. Crabs 

 have an agreeable smell when fresh. 



Prawns and shrimps, when fresh, are firm and crisp. 



Oysters. If fresh, the shell is firmly closed ; when the 

 shells of oysters are opened, they are dead, and unfit for 

 food. The small shelled oysters, the Py fleet, Colchester, 

 and Mil ford are the finest in flavor. Larger kinds called 

 rock oysters, are generally considered only fit for stewing 

 and sauces, though some persons prefer them. 



PANADAS. 



Meat panada. Take the meat of a chicken previously 

 cooked, or the inside of a sirloin of beef or of a loin of 



