FARM SHOP WORK 65 



allow, and it is better to have them protected so it is im- 

 possible to catch anything to wind around the shaft. 

 Cup set-screws are not satisfactory except for very 

 light work. If necessary to use them, the ends may be 

 firmly fixed by cutting a ring with a sharp, diamond- 

 point cold chisel. 



Setting the Handsaw. Nine teeth to the inch is the 

 most satisfactory handsaw for all kinds of lumber. 

 Setting the teeth of this kind of saw is best done with 

 a hand lever set. The plunger pin should be care- 

 fully adjusted to bend the teeth just far enough to give 

 the necessary set. For general wcfrk a saw needs more 

 set than is needed for kiln-dried stuff. The teeth 

 should cut a kerf just wide enough to clear the blade. 

 Anything more is a waste of time and muscle. It is 

 better to work from both sides of the saw by first set- 

 ting one side the whole length of the blade. Then re- 

 verse the saw in the clamp and set the alternate teeth 

 in the same manner. There should be a good solid stop 

 between the handles of the set to insure equal pressure 

 against each sawtooth. The pin should be carefully 

 placed against each tooth at exactly the same spot 

 every time and the pressure should be the same for each 

 tooth. 



The best saw-sets for fine tooth saws are automatic 

 so far as it is possible to make them so, but the skill 

 of the operator determines the quality of the work. 

 The reason for setting a saw before jointing is to leave 

 the flattened ends of the teeth square with the blade 

 after the jointing and filing is completed. 



Jointing a Handsaw. After the saw has been set it 

 must be jointed to square the teeth and to even them to 

 equal length, and to keep the saw straight on the cut- 

 ting edge. Some woodworkers give their saws a slight 



