FORCING POTATOES. 133 



or boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempe- 

 rature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50 for the 

 nursery-bed, and from that to 60 or 65 for fruiting. 



When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they 

 may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches 

 apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from 

 twelve to eighteen inches in depth. 



As the Peas pi ogress in growth, the earth should be stir- 

 red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, 

 so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold ; and 

 they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- 

 port themselves. 



When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly 

 promotes the forming and filling of the pods ; they will re- 

 quire to be regularly watered, and as the v spring advances 

 they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to sneuei 

 them in the event of a sudden change. 



FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. 



POTATOES may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those 

 who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course 

 provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- 

 duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- 

 reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this description. 



Potatoes may be forwarded in giowth previous to being 

 planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar. 

 Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature 

 them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in 

 which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty 

 inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient 

 to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. 



Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this 

 elimate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in 

 each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 



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