SECTION III. CHROME CALF 



THE tannage of calfskins by the chrome processes for the 

 manufacture of upper leathers is one of the most extensive 

 branches of leather manufacture. The deservedly popular 

 box calf is typical of these leathers, and the observations 

 of this section are primarily applicable to it. A chrome- 

 tanned calf skin, fat liquored and blacked, provides as 

 suitable an upper leather as could be desired for ordinary 

 boots. It is at once supple and durable. It is also suffi- 

 ciently waterproof, but can be given a bright glazed finish. 



In regard to the wet work for chrome calf, the general 

 principles and methods discussed in the previous section 

 are much to the point. It is essential to avoid undue 

 plumping and the loss of hide substance. The skins should 

 be washed clean as soon as possible. Three fresh waters 

 are desirable, the goods remaining only a short time in 

 each. Salted skins need more time, but the liquors must 

 be kept sweet. Drumming the skins in running water is 

 very suitable for the first and last stages of soaking. 



The liming should be short but not " sharp," i.e. 

 mellow sulphide limes are suitable, depilation being carried 

 out after about 7 days. The one-pit system is usual, but 

 two liquors may be given, the green goods being first 

 inserted into a used liquor, and after handling re-inserted 

 into the same pit with a new lime liquor made up with 

 lime, sulphide and a proportion of the old liquor. Scudding 

 should be carefully done, as hair on the finished leather is 

 very objectionable. 



In deliming it is essential to have the grain of the 

 skins thoroughly relaxed and pulled down. The finished 

 box calf should have a characteristic soft and silky feel, 

 and this is only attained by procuring the inelastic pelt. 



