A SUMMER IN HIGH ASIA. 



quiet, uncomplaining creature, there is something 

 almost pathetic about the Balti, though in some 

 districts, for instance, high up the Shyok River, 

 and in places where they are less used to being 

 suddenly impressed to carry travellers' baggage or 

 for Government " begar " (forced labour), they 

 are far more independent in manner. I found 

 them on the whole a cheery and inoffensive 

 people. Every coolie carries a stick, in shape 

 somewhat resembling a wooden pickaxe, and on 

 this when tired he rests his load, as the exertion 

 of getting up again if he once sat down would be 

 too wearisome. 



The following day we traversed the Dras valley, 

 riding for some miles along the open plain, where 

 the vivid green of the young grass contrasted 

 strangely with the brilliant colours of the foot-hills 

 and the purple canopy of rain-cloud that concealed 

 the higher peaks. Our way led down a narrow 

 gorge above the river, and we arrived in a storm 

 of rain at Tashgaum (fifteen miles). The only 

 objects of interest seen during this march were a 

 herd of female ibex high up amongst the crags near 

 the latter place, and a weary pedestrian with fair 

 complexion and beard, whom B. declared was a 

 Russian spy, and whom we passed and repassed. 

 On our questioning him he merely remarked the 

 word " Yarkand," and from what I saw subsequently 

 I imagine that he was a harmless Central Asian 

 returning to his native land. At Tashgaum we 



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