A SUMMER IN HIGH ASIA. 



avalanches, which seem to be of frequent occur- 

 rence, more particularly in wet weather. That day 

 the march was very similar to the previous ones. 

 We had one very long and stiff ascent, and when 

 we got to the top found that there was no water 

 for the 'coolies, who were now pretty well done. 

 The servants and myself had our chagals (leather 

 water-bottles), and fortunately not long afterwards 

 we came to a Dak hut, a stage for the mail-runners, 

 and here they had some snow stored for drinking 

 purposes, so that the thirsty coolies were able to 

 get some. For a long way our road led over a 

 barren and stony upland, with no vegetation save 

 the sparsely-growing Eurotia ; but even this sort 

 of ground was preferable to the eternal " parris." 

 Eventually we made a very steep descent to the 

 village of Tolti, part of which lies in so narrow a 

 ravine that the sun only shines on it for ten days 

 throughout the year. Here there was a pleasant 

 and shady encamping- ground. The Rajah (they 

 have one here also) came to pay me a visit and 

 had tea with me ; he, or rather one of his suite, 

 produced his own cup made of green soapstone or 

 jade from which to drink. According to Oriental 

 etiquette he produced a rupee as a token of friend- 

 liness, which was only touched and returned (I once 

 knew an officer, lately arrived in India, who, 

 ignorant of this custom, pocketed the proffered 

 rupee, much to the astonishment of the Oriental 

 who had offered this polite token of subservience). 



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