A SUMMER IN HIGH ASIA. 



more emphasised), short pig-tails, and generally 

 decaying-from-dirt appearance. 



When supplying the traveller with yaks for 

 transport, goats for milk, and sheep for food, they 

 will accompany him for many stages of his journey, 

 till he reaches the next camp, where he can obtain 

 what he requires ; their wives, children, and dogs 

 accompany them, cheerfully sleeping in the open at 

 night time, and for ever singing their curious 

 plaintive little song. Travelling in this way one 

 learns to appreciate the patriarchal mode of pro- 

 gression with one's flocks and herds ! 



The Chang-Pa's only worldly wealth seems to lie 

 in their flocks of thousands of sheep and goats, of 

 which they sell the "pushm," or under-coat of 

 wool, with which Nature endows all animals at 

 these elevations to protect them against the severity 

 of the cold. This wool trade, with the transport 

 which they supply to travellers and merchants 

 between China and Leh, seems to be their only 

 source of income. That they are not without 

 money was proved to me on one occasion, when, 

 having run short of rupees (my fresh supply not 

 having arrived from Leh), my guide, Ramzahn,' 

 borrowed somewhat extensively from the head man 

 of one of these camps. This chief was quite 

 surprised and pleased to receive a small interest on 

 his loan a day or two later, and told me at first that 

 I had made some mistake ; civilisation has not yet 

 spoilt the natives of these parts ! During the 



161 M 



