CHAPTER X. 



A BOAT VOYAGE ON THE ZAMBESI. 



HAVING arrived at Chinde, on the East Coast of Africa, for the second time, 

 I decided to go into North- Eastern Rhodesia, via Tete, on the Zambesi. I had 

 previously done two or three voyages by houseboat on that river, and once 

 had come all the way from Tete to Chinde by boat. 



This time I took a river steamer as far as a place called Mutarara, where 

 I had arranged that a houseboat with men should meet me. 



Chinde is anything but a nice place to stay in, for the township is built on 

 a sandbank, and in the dry weather it is hard work getting about, as one sinks 

 above the ankles at every step, and the weather is generally hot. 



The place looks unhealthy, but, unless a land breeze blows, there is nearly 

 always a nice wind from the sea. To reach Chinde from the ocean steamers it 

 is necessary to tranship on to a small tug, which can only cross the bar of the 

 river at high water. 



There is a British concession in Chinde which forms a square, inside which 

 are the consulate and the stores and offices of various trading firms. 



Goods pass into the concession free and pay duty at Chiromo, which is the 

 customs station for Nyasaland. There are two British hotels in the place, one 

 called Murray's Hotel, and the other a building belonging to the African Lakes 

 Corporation, Limited. The charges at these places are 12s. 6d. a day, for 

 which the visitor receives good board and lodging. 



Very few people stay in Chinde for pleasure, and except the people whose 

 work obliges them to stay there the others are only passers-through on their 

 way either to Nyasaland, Northern Rhodesia, or Portuguese territory. 



On my arrival on September 25th, 1906, I engaged a passage on the 

 sternwheeler Hamburg. On the way to Mutarara I took a walk ashore with my 

 rifle whenever I got the opportunity, but did not have much luck, as game is 

 not very plentiful near the river. 



I saw hippo on several occasions, and shot one which I believe I killed, 

 but the steamer began to whistle for me ; so I had to leave it, telling the 

 natives to look out for it. We reached Mutarara on October yth, and I was 



