sun gets hot. The water will not harm any of the 

 bloom, except the white ones, which you must avoid 

 getting wet. Do not do this in foggy weather, as it 

 will induce mildew. 



At the least sign of mildew, give a dusting of dry 

 sulphur, which will check the mildew at once. By 

 keeping the blooms cut off, and not allowing them to 

 remain, with faithful care in the matter of fertilizing, 

 water and cultivation, they can be kept blooming well 

 into November, providing weather conditions remain 

 favorable. 



Do not withhold water from them altogether when 

 the blooming season is past. Do not be in a hurry to 

 have the tops die off. When the tops have dried off, 

 do not cut them down close to the ground, but leave 

 the main portion of the main stocks on until you go 

 to divide the tubers in the spring. The stocks are 

 hollow and if cut close to the ground, the water from 

 the winter rains will run down this hollow place and 

 often cause the base of the stock to rot away, some- 

 times being the cause of losing the entire clump. This 

 treatment applies to a frostless climate. 



Where they have frost and freezing weather, the 

 Dahlias are taken up after the tops have been killed 

 by the frost, the tops cut back to ten inches above 

 the ground. The Dahlias are left lying on the top of 

 the ground for a day or so to dry off. Then put into 

 a cellar or a similar place to protect them from freez- 

 ing during the winter and replanted in the spring, 

 when the ground has warmed up and all danger of 

 frost is passed. 



Where the soil is sandy and has good drainage, it 

 is all right to leave them in the ground, hilling the 

 soil around the stocks until near the first of March, 

 but if the soil is the kind that packs down hard and 



14 



