By the Way 153 



slightest excuse to tumble over their horse's heads. 

 It is not unusual at these reception-parties for the 

 local poet to stand up and deliver himself of a 

 panegyric, of which you are the blushing subject. 

 Etiquette does not fortunately demand that you 

 should reply in similar strains ; you will have 

 done all that is necessary if you cause the poet's 

 mouth to be filled with sugar-candy. 



Then there are the visits and return visits that 

 have to be made, and these not only with gov- 

 ernors, and the superior officials that form the 

 elite of Persian society, but with lesser but still 

 shining lights, such as post and telegraph masters. 



All have the dazzling polish of manners that 

 have caused Persians to be called the " Frenchmen 

 of the East." They are full of exquisite phrases, 

 and the wise Faranghi will supply himself 

 with a quiver full of flowery darts, which he can 

 shoot forth at opportune moments. At the com- 

 mencement of a visit, for instance : " Peace be 

 with you" "And with you peace" "You are 

 welcome, you have honoured me exceedingly" 

 "Your state of health ?" " Praise be to God" 

 (bow, and arm pressed across abdomen) "Your 

 presence is light to my eyes " " It is long since 

 you honoured this slave's house" "I look on 

 your house as my own " (this is very good) 

 "May Allah prolong your age" "May your 



