i8o By Mountain, Lake, and Plain 



scattered trees on the mountain slopes, the first 

 indications of the splendid forests of the range 

 further east, then the whole country became 

 green, and we found villages nestling amongst 

 oriental planes, chestnut, mulberry, and walnut 

 trees, worthy of the vale of Kashmir itself. 



On the evening of the fourth day we were met 

 outside the town of Bujnurd by the consular 

 escort of Indian sowars that had been sent on in 

 advance with my camp, and a number of Kurdish 

 horsemen sent out by the chief, so made our 

 entry in becoming state. 



After a few days in Bujnurd, where I enjoyed 

 the hospitality of the Ilkhani, a very fine young 

 sportsman, I went on with a light shooting-camp 

 and few impedimenta. My shooting-ground was 

 the no-man's-land that divides Kurd and Turk- 

 oman ; and at Zard, a little hamlet on the border, 

 I was met by some horsemen sent to protect my 

 camp, in a characteristically theatrical manner. 

 Approaching the village, a cloud of dust arose on 

 the far limits of a wide plain among the hills, 

 and a troop of wild-looking horsemen came charg- 

 ing towards me venire a terre. They looked as 

 if they were going to ride over our small party, 

 but when within a few yards of me, the leader, 

 mounted on a splendid grey Turkoman horse, 

 threw up his arm and halted them. They were 



