On the Road to the Caspian 253 



Seistan is best." He was quite right. As well 

 expect the lizard of the salt desert to appreciate 

 being plumped down in soft green grass by the 

 side of still waters ! 



Sometimes we were riding under umbrageous 

 trees sycamores, planes, and beeches through 

 what might have been a wild bit in an English 

 park, sometimes splashing through becks dappled 

 with sun and shadow, or quiet streams in which 

 the fringing willows trailed their branches. The 

 cooing of turtle - doves, the flap of a startled 

 wood -pigeon, the occasional crow of a cock- 

 pheasant, made it hard to realise we were yet 

 in the East. In the open stretches of country, 

 up to our horses 7 knees in grass and wild-flowers, 

 the incense from which hung in the warm air, 

 there was the hum of bees, the unceasing dance 

 of wondrous butterflies. Blackberries grew in 

 extraordinary profusion, and of a size I have 

 seen nowhere else, and we picked them as we 

 rode along. 



" The blushing Rose grows here ; the Violet 

 And Parthyan Mirtle in choice order set." 



Every prospect pleases, and as for man well, you 

 have the Turkoman. We soon came across the 

 first obahs, clusters of brown dome-shaped tents 

 of felt. They make by no means uncomfortable 



