Tke Land of the Hills and the Glens 



rarely in their experience of the finest summer weather 

 had they known the sea so calm here. But even to-day 

 one could see, at a corner of the island, the water being 

 driven at times through a narrow opening or "blow-hole" 

 among the rocks, and being thrown out on to the quiet 

 air in the form of finely-divided spray, which hung smoke- 

 like for a while before returning to its parent ocean, and 

 as we approached nearer the sharp sound of air and 

 water forcibly expelled was audible. In the centre of the 

 island a rounded hill rises a few hundred feet. On the 

 summit of this hill a peregrine and his mate were stand- 

 ing, sentinel-like. One bird took wing, the other re- 

 mained. Green cormorants, their crests raised, stood around 

 on the rocks, and showed a remarkable absence of fear. 

 One individual remained not thirty yards from where the 

 landing was made, yet he did not take wing, nor even move 

 from his position. 



A faint breeze from the west was ruffling the waters 

 of the Atlantic as the sail was hoisted for the return 

 journey. Above circled greater black-backed gulls, uttering 

 hoarse querulous cries. Then, after a time, we passed through 

 the inner group of islands, sailing, in the failing light, 

 between sunken rocks and through channels so narrow that 

 only to a seaman with great knowledge of these waters 

 could the helm be entrusted with safety. Two miles from 

 land the night was still clear, the waters calm, and the 

 lighthouse to our north a sure guide. 



And then, without warning, a squall of sleet descended 

 on us, coming straight from the high hills to the south. In 

 less time than it takes to tell, every landmark was blotted 

 out even the strong glare of the lighthouse was hidden. 

 Quickly the wind freshened, and with anxiety the fisher- 

 men spoke rapidly among themselves in the Gaelic. The 

 jib was lowered, and we drove on through impenetrable 

 gloom with increasing speed. Even the outlines of my 

 companions in the boat were scarcely visible and one 



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