The Land of the Hills and the Glens 



At the south end of the island the rocks rise precipi- 

 tously, and here kittiwakes stood quietly on their nests or 

 sailed on white wings above the sea. Curiously enough, 

 the big cormorant is almost entirely absent from these 

 Hebridean Islands, his place being filled by the green 

 cormorant or shag, and of these latter there were many 

 nesting on the day of this visit. Ungainly and seemingly 

 plebeian birds are these green cormorants; still, they show 

 great devotion and bravery when their eggs or young are 

 in danger, and not infrequently refuse to leave the nest 

 even when one is standing not more than a foot or two 

 from it. At such times they will utter harsh and angry 

 cries, and peck viciously with their strong bills. I remember 

 once seeing a sailor hurl some heavy rocks at a shag 

 guarding her brood, and although one actually hit the 

 nest the brave bird refused to leave it. 



As I left the island, the spring tide was at its lowest 

 ebb, so that many rock pools, teeming with the life of the 

 sea, were left exposed. Hermit crabs lurked in their 

 depths, and numbers of sea anemones in brilliant hues 

 awaited their prey, their many tentacles spread to the full. 



Near to Ernisgeir, and hidden away beside that rocky 

 promontory known as "Craig na h'lolaire," or the Eagle's 

 Rock, is a deep and gloomy cavern known as "MacKinnon's 

 Cave." No ray of light penetrates its inner recesses, and 

 the air here contains little oxygen, so that one feels 

 oppressed in the cave and glad to emerge once more. On 

 this day, setting our course for Loch nan Ceall, and sailing 

 close in shore, its narrow entrance was passed near by. 



Tradition has it that to this cave at certain seasons was 

 wont to repair a Highlander, known as "MacKinnon of the 

 Whelks," in order that he might there fast and humble 

 himself. MacKinnon was a piper, and was in the habit 

 of taking with him his pipes when he visited the cave. 

 One day, when he was quite alone in the cavern, and play- 

 ing a tune on his pipes, there gathered round him in the 



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