THE WILD PONIES OF EXMOOR. 219 



trudging up, steep ascents we proceed by a track as 

 sound as if it had been under the care of a model board 

 of trustees for the simple reason that it rested on 

 natural rock. We pushed along at an average rate of 

 some six miles an hour, allowing for the slow crawling 

 up hills ; passing many rich fields wherein fat oxen of 

 the Devon breed calmly grazed, with sheep that had 

 certainly not been bred on mountains. Once we passed 

 a deserted copper-mine ; which, after having been worked 

 for many years, had at length failed, or grown un- 

 profitable, under the competition of the richer mines of 

 Cuba and South Australia. A long chimney, peering 

 above deserted cottages, and a plentiful crop of weeds, 

 was the sole monument of departed glories hi shares 

 and dividends and mine-captain's promises. 



At length the hedges began to grow thinner ; beeches 

 succeeded the hazels ; the road, more rugged and bare 

 showed the marks where winter's rains had ploughed 

 deep channels ; and, at the turn of a steep hill, we saw, 

 on the one hand, the brown and blue moor stretching 

 before and above us ; and on the other hand, below, like 

 a map, the fertile vale lay unrolled, various in colour, 

 according to the crops, divided by enclosures into every 

 angle from most acute to most obtuse. Below was the 

 cultivation of centuries ; above, the turnip the greatest 

 improvement of modern agriculture flourished, a deep 

 green, under the protection of fences of very recent 

 date. 



One turnpike, and cottages at rare intervals, had so 

 far kept up the idea of population ; but now, far as the 

 horizon extended, not a place of habitation was to be 

 seen ; until, just in a hollow bend out of the ascending 

 road, we came upon a low white farm-house, of humble 



