242 COACHING DAYS AND COACHING WAYS 



times, and was then additionally picturesque. At 

 Gravesend distinguished visitors to London made up 

 their minds as to whether they would approach the 

 capital by the river or the Dover Road. And if they 

 decided on the river, there was generally a gorgeous sight 

 to be witnessed on 



*' The clear Thames bordered by its gardens green " 



— the Thames that is to say of the sixteenth century, and 

 Mr. William Morris. The present Lord Mayors' Shows 

 give us no conception, I fear, of the gorgeous processions 

 which attended the passage of distinguished visitors up 

 the river in the days when the Thames looked as Mr. 

 Morris has described it, and the Lord Mayor of London 

 was the important personage that French dramatists still 

 believe him to be. Cardinal Pole came by this route on 

 his return from exile, and the Poet Laureate in Queen 

 Mary has put a fine passage into his mouth descriptive 

 of his experience. With " royal barges " however, 

 " thrones of purple on decks," " silver crosses sparkling 

 before prows,"" " ripples twinkling in their diamond 

 dance," " boats as glowing gay as regal gardens," we 

 have nothing to do, so had better get on to Rochester 

 via Gad's Hill. 



Here Falstaff's horse was removed by Prince Hal, an 

 operation which caused its owner to " fret like gummed 

 velvet." Here he was desired by his unfeeling companion 

 to lie down and lay his ear close to the ground in order 

 that he might hear the tread of travellers — a formality 

 which he declined to comply with, unless somebody 

 promised to help him up. Here he was called opprobrious 

 names — " Fat Guts " amongst others. Here he robbed 

 the travellers w^ho were carrying money to the king's 

 exchequer, in order that he might divert it to the King's 

 Arms. And here he was robbed of what he had robbed 

 by his graceless confederates childishly bent on a 

 practical joke. 



