SRINAGAR TO LEH 15 



Ponies may either be hired to go as far as Yar- 

 kand or bought. I think it best to buy them, as one 

 is then perfectly independent. If it was possible to 

 hire to Yarkand, and then get a fresh lot to go on 

 without any delay, it would be a great saving of 

 time. This, however, cannot be done ; it is easy 

 enough to hire to Yarkand, but getting another lot 

 there would take at least a week, and as this ought 

 to be sufficient rest for one's own ponies, there is 

 nothing gained by having hired ones. 



The average price we paid for our ponies was 

 46 rupees, which is a little higher than it used to be. 

 At this rate we bought thirty-three, all Ladakis, 

 which for long journeys are better than Yarkandis. 

 Though they are small they are very hardy, stand 

 cold and elevation well, and at a pinch can get along 

 with very little to eat. As against this they suffer 

 much from heat, and so are not to be recommended 

 for continued marching through the lower parts of 

 Central Asia during the summer. They are un- 

 pleasant to ride, mostly having bad paces ; but for 

 transport they are, perhaps, the best all round, and 

 are not so liable as Yarkandis to sore back, which 

 is one of the greatest troubles the traveller has to 

 contend with ; and when buying ponies one should 

 be careful to take none that have suffered much 

 from this, as, however well it may seem to have 

 healed, it is always apt to break out again. Cer- 

 tainly our ponies nearly all broke down before the 



