LEH TO YARKAND 35 



traveller to remember the following points : First, 

 you send your card and a message to say that you 

 are coming, about half an hour after which you 

 go yourself; never take your hat off, and don't 

 drink the ceremonial tea with which you are pre- 

 sented until you are ready to leave ; if your host 

 drinks his first, it is a hint that he has had enough 

 of you, but we never stayed long enough for this ; 

 don't inquire into the health of Mrs. Chinaman, 

 and don't be surprised at being asked your age, 

 as this is a Chinese way of showing kindly interest. 

 We got a lot of Chinese cards written for us in 

 Yarkand, simply our names, or as near as they 

 could get them, copied off the passports in Chinese 

 characters on a strip of red paper ; a large supply 

 of these cards is necessary, as they should be 

 sent on arrival, departure, and any other possible 

 occasion as well. There is another form of card 

 like a little book ; if this is used, it is always returned, 

 but as it soon shows signs of wear the others are 

 the most convenient. 



We stayed at Yarkand for a week to give the 

 ponies a rest, and during this time amused our- 

 selves buying such curios as were to be found. At 

 first but few things were brought and exorbitant 

 prices asked, but after a day or two things changed 

 and the people became quite keen to deal ; when 

 we left a man actually came nearly two marches 

 after us with a piece of old brass-work for sale. 



