KULDJA TO URUMTSI 157 



of forest, mostly poplar trees, to the south a con- 

 siderable extent of low, undulating hills between 

 the road and the main range of mountains. The 

 Manas River has to be crossed before getting to 

 the town, but as the water had not yet begun to rise 

 it presented no difficulty. 



The population of Manas have a very evil 

 reputation, and judging by our experience, they 

 certainly do their best to live up to it. 



To begin with, in the morning as I was riding 

 alone in advance, I met two Chinamen with a loaded 

 mule, which they carefully brought across the road, 

 and then proceeded to try and drive it over me ; 

 however, they failed in this attempt, and I promptly 

 hit one of them over the head with my whip an 

 active way of showing resentment which seemed to 

 vex them much, though as there were no stones 

 about they had to content themselves with throwing 

 Chinese Billingsgate at me, which I hope did 

 them good. 



Close to the town Phelps and I were riding 

 together when we met three Chinese soldiers ; they 

 were riding on the other side of the road, but came 

 across when they saw us, rode straight at us and cut 

 at us with their whips. This time, however, they 

 had made a mistake, as'we returned the compliment 

 with interest, and a smart cavalry skirmish ensued, 

 in the middle of which two of our own men arrived 

 on the scene ; one of the enemy managed to escape, 



