68 LIMA. 



nothing very attractive in its architecture. The fountain in 

 the centre of the plaza is a splendid piece of work, and was 

 erected, according to the inscription, in 1600, by Don Garcia 

 Sarmiento Sotomayer, the then Viceroy, and Captain- General 

 of Peru. 



In this plaza, the Saya y Manta, or the peculiar dress of 

 the Lima ladies, is seen to the best advantage. It is certainly 

 a very bewitching attire, for it betrays the whole outline of the 

 female figure ; neither does it conceal the foot and ankle, 

 which, when prettily shaped, (and those of the Liminean ladies 

 are rarely otherwise,) are a charming sight, especially to 

 bachelors ; but, on the other hand, the Saya y Manta offers 

 strong inducements to carry on a love-intrigue, and for that 

 reason was once put under the ban of a legislative statute. It 

 still survives, however, and is worn by the ladies of the best 

 families. It consists of a kind of hood and a petticoat, both 

 usually made of black satin, with numerous vertical folds. 

 The manta, or upper garment, is fastened at the waist, and is 

 so gathered over the head and shoulders as to conceal every 

 thing but the right eye and the right hand. The disguise is 

 so complete that a husband may meet his wife in the streets, 

 or any of the public places, without being able .to recognize 

 her ; and it is, no doubt, too true, that it has been the means 

 of destroying the peace and happiness of many a Liminean 

 family. It is asserted that the original intention of this singu- 

 lar costume, was to enable a lady to go out in the morning to 

 mass, or shopping, before she made her toilet. 



The Almeda is extensive and handsomely laid out. The 

 walks are lined with rows of willows on each side ; its centre 

 is ornamented with .fountains, and artificial streams of water 

 run parallel with the walks. Towards evening it is very 

 much resorted to by the ladies and gentlemen, and I have seen 



