SANDWICH ISLANDS. 213 



cottages. After another two hours' walk I arrived at the last 

 village within the district of Puna. The appearance presented 

 by this village was very inviting. The houses were mostly 

 built among shady groves, while the country in the vicinity 

 was beautifully laid out in plantations and gardens. It had 

 an air of freshness and comfort which was very gratifying, 

 especially after coming from the desolate scene above de- 

 scribed. The inhabitants, though not so well dressed, or per- 

 haps not so far advanced in the scale of civilization as those 

 about Hilo, were very kind and hospitable. Many of them 

 invited me to their houses, and made me presents of cocoa- 

 nuts and bananas. 



After walking a mile or two farther I came to a piece of 

 wood, the traveling through which was exceedingly fatiguing 

 and dangerous, as at almost every step I sank ankle-deep into 

 mud, or fell into some hole, which the darkness of the night 

 rendered invisible. But as I was aware that the wood was of 

 no great extent, and that when through it I should be near my 

 journey's end, I pushed on, and about eight o'clock I had the 

 satisfaction of finding myself in the open country about Hilo. 

 I directed my steps to the Observatory, and on reaching it found 

 there one of our boats, which conveyed me to the ship, and so 

 ended this interesting jaunt. It afforded me both amusement 

 and instruction ; and it is not likely that some of the impres- 

 sions it has left upon my mind will ever be effaced while on 

 this side of the grave. 



During my absence nothing worthy of particular notice tran- 

 spired, except the return of the expedition which set out to 

 ascend Mauna Loa. Indomitable perseverance eventually over- 

 came all obstacles, and the " Stars and Stripes" waved up- 

 wards of a week over one of the highest mountains in the world. 

 The success of the undertaking was as complete as could be 



