VOYAGE TO ALGERIA 173 



maximum of grandeur out of the height. We weighed 

 anchor at eight A.M., passing for a time through shoal 

 water, the bottom having been evidently stirred up. The 

 adjacent land seemed eroded in a remarkable manner. It 

 has its floods, which excavate these valleys and ravines, 

 and leave those singular ridges behind. Toward evening 

 I climbed the mainmast, and, standing on the cross-trees, 

 saw the sun set amid a blaze of fiery clouds. The wind 

 was strong and bitterly cold, and I was glad to slide back 

 to the deck along a rope, which stretched from the mast- 

 head to the ship's side. That night we cast anchor beside 

 the Mole of Gibraltar. 



On the morning of the 27th, in company with two 

 friends, I drove to the Spanish lines, with the view of 

 seeing the rock from that side. It is an exceedingly noble 

 mass. The Peninsular and Oriental mail-boat had been 

 signalled and had come. Heavy duties called me home- 

 ward, and by transferring myself from the "Urgent" to 

 the mail- steamer I should gain three days. I hired a 

 boat, rowed to the steamer, learned that she was to start 

 at one, and returned with all speed to the "Urgent." 

 Making known to Captain Henderson my wish to get 

 away, he expressed doubts as to the possibility of reach- 

 ing the mail- steamer in time. With his accustomed kind- 

 ness, he, however, placed a boat at my disposal. Four 

 hardy fellows and one of the ship's officers jumped intp 

 it; my luggage, hastily thrown together, was tumbled in, 

 and we were immediately on our way. We had nearly 

 four miles to row in about twenty minutes; but we hoped 

 the mail-boat might not be punctual. For a time we 

 watched her anxiously; there was no motion; we came 

 nearer, but the flags were not yet hauled in. The men 



