484 OLD ALPINE JOTTINGa 



We scrambled up the Grauhaupt, a point exceedingly 

 favourable to the study of the conformation of the Alps. 

 We also halted at Alagna and Macugnaga. But, not- 

 withstanding their admitted glory, the Italian valleys 

 of the Alps did not suit either Bennen or me. We 

 longed for the more tonic air of the northern slopes, 

 and were glad to change the valley of Ansasca for that 

 of Saas. 



The first days of the vacation of 1863 were spent in 

 the company of Mr. Philip Lutley Sclater. On July 1 9 

 we reached Eeichenbach, and on the following day 

 sauntered up the valley of Hasli, turning to the left 

 at Imhof into Gradmenthal. Our destination was Stein, 

 which we reached by a grass-grown road through fine 

 scenery. The goatherds were milking when we arrived. 

 At the heels of one quadruped, supported by the ordi- 

 nary one-legged stool of the Senner, bent a par- 

 ticularly wild and dirty-looking individual, who, our 

 guide informed us, was the proprietor of the inn. ' He 

 is but a rough Bauer,' said our guide Jaun, c but he has 

 engaged a pretty maiden to keep house for him.' While 

 he thus spoke a light-footed creature glided from the 

 door towards us, and bade us welcome. She led us 

 upstairs, provided us with baths, took our orders for 

 dinner, helped us by her suggestions, and answered all 

 our questions with the utmost propriety and grace. 

 She had been two years in England, and spoke English 

 with a particularly winning accent. How she came to 

 be associated with the unkempt brute outside was a 

 puzzle to both of us. It is Emerson, I think, who 

 remarks on the benefit which a beautiful face, without 

 trouble to itself, confers upon him who looks at it. 

 And, though the splendour of actual beauty could 

 hardly be claimed for our young hostess, she was hand- 



