36 CONQUERING THE ARCTIC ICE 



from the bow of the ship he brought down birds enough for a 

 couple of meals, while a man armed with a net attached to the 

 end of a long stick landed them on deck. We saw several seals 

 sleeping on the water, and a large humpback whale came up 

 several times close to the ship and was quite playful in his 

 clumsy way. 



On the 4th of July we celebrated the anniversary of the 

 American Independence with a fine dinner. The dinner and 

 the day combined worked so strongly on Dr. Howe's patriotic 

 feelings that he fired a salute a somewhat irregular proceeding, 

 I admit, but none the less very well meant. 



We sighted St. Lawrence Island on July 5 at 4 A.M., but 

 the fog was so dense that it was impossible to make out our 

 position. We bore off to the westward, and ran so close along 

 the coast that we could see through the fog the dark and 

 forbidding-looking shore with a heavy surf. 



At 8 A.M. the fog suddenly lifted, and we found out where we 

 were. The higher land, which had been hidden in mist, was 

 covered with millions of birds which bred on the inaccessible 

 slopes. These birds, disturbed in their ordinary peaceful 

 occupation, came up in immense flocks from the cliffs and 

 the surface of the water, circled around the ship, and made 

 a tremendous noise. 



On the cliffs close to the water's edge we saw several ruined 

 villages, but not till we came round the south-west point of the 

 island did we meet human beings, or rather indications of their 

 presence a tent raised in a cove and a large boat hauled up 

 on the beach. A calm overtook us when we were a few miles 

 past the cape, and before long we saw a sail aft. By-and-by it 

 came nearer, and at 2 P.M. the boat which we had passed lying 

 on the beach was alongside of us, full of Eskimos. They were 

 fine, sturdy fellows ; their faces expressed considerably more 

 intelligence than those of the natives we had met on Kodiak, 

 while they were also cleaner and apparently much better off. 

 They had a fine whaleboat with all necessary whaling gear, and 

 they were and had reason to be proud of their possession. 

 The Eskimos were much pleased to see us and laughed and 

 talked a good deal. Some of them spoke a little English, and 

 we found out from them that we could get dogs at their village 

 further north. 



