26 Ciuise of the "Alert" 



shrubs were to be seen. Thistles were still present, but in very 

 small numbers, and indeed there was little to meet the eye but 

 a wide expanse of grass-land dotted here and there with herds 

 of oxen, sheep, and horses (which seemed in very small pro- 

 portion to the acreage;, and exhibiting, at distances of about 

 two miles apart, small one-storied huts. For ploughing and 

 other agricultural work, oxen seemed to be used, to the exclusion 

 of horses ; which is all the more strange, as the latter here exist 

 in great abundance, and are so cheap as to create that equestrian 

 peasantry which to a European visitor is, I think, the most striking 

 characteristic of the country. 



As one of the up-trains passed by us at the station of Joashim 

 Suarez, we noticed several trucks piled up with ox skulls and 

 other bones, and on enquiry ascertained that they were for 

 exportation to England, to be used in sugar-refining factories : 

 the bones were piled up so high on the trucks as to tower 

 above the engine, so that as the train approached us end -on, 

 they formed a ghastly sort of figure-head. 



At Santa Lucia the train stopped half an hour for refresh- 

 ments, and all hands adjourned to an hotel close by the railway 

 station, where a good breakfast, consisting of many courses 

 (including beefsteak and potatoes), was satisfactorily disposed o 

 The charge for this repast was moderate, being only six reals = 

 35. 6d. a head. 



Of birds a great many were to be seen as we travelled along. 

 Looking forward from the carriage windows, we could see ground 

 doves of a dull slate colour, rising from the track, and sheering 

 off to either side in great flocks, as the train advanced. A 

 species of lapwing, with bluish-grey plumage barred with white 

 across the wings, and displaying a pair of long red legs, kept 

 us continually alive to its presence by its harsh double cry. 

 Partridges were also abundant. These birds are strictly preserved 

 all over Uruguay, and during the breeding season, from September 

 to March, no shooting of any kind is allowed without special 



