<,o THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



introduce trees for that purpose between the damson trees as indicated by the crosses. 

 The small circles show rows of temporary standards at half the distance asunder of the 

 permanent trees, which are portrayed. The lines of trees to the right-hand half of the 

 plan are the same as on the left as regards the permanent and temporary ones in the 

 corresponding rows, F", Z, A, with the addition of a bush tree between the permanent 

 and temporary standard trees as shown ; a temporary tree may also be planted between 

 each pair of trees in the line of plums, Z, between the rows of bush and pyramid trees 

 for early bearing, and between the rows of standards. If cherries are wanted, place them 

 in the second line of apple trees across the top, F; and if pears, at the upper end of 

 the rows of apple trees that are 24 feet apart, Z, omitting the corresponding number 

 in each case of apple trees. If medlars are wanted, introduce trees in one of the outer 

 lines of the three rows of plum trees, at the upper part ; if mulberry and quince, plant 

 them in the inner line of plum trees, omitting the corresponding number of these 

 trees. 



Varieties for all the purposes named will be found under each fruit. 



KENOVATING OLD ORCHARDS. 



In many orchards the occupants are so crippled by age, bad usage, and neglect as to 

 serve no useful purpose. These should be cleared away. The question is, Ought these 

 old orchards to be replanted ? Not if new ground, equal or better in quality, site, and 

 shelter is available ; but even the site of an old orchard may be made to grow useful crops 

 of fruit. It is true that young trees, set here and there among the old, have failed ; 

 it may be because the fence has been broken down, thus affording access to cattle, 

 which invariably attack young trees, or the failure may be due to crowding and twisting 

 the roots into holes not half wide enough, and twice too deep. What is wanted is a 

 thorough improvement in the soil. This can be done by deep culture, and adding the 

 requisite constituents for rendering it fertile. 



In making a new start on an old orchard site, the worthless trees should be grubbed 

 up, the land drained efficiently, trenched two spits deep, the bottom loosened, not 

 bringing up the whole of the second spit to the surface where the soil is not good to 

 that depth, but mixing both well together, adding road-scrapings and old mortar rubbish 

 where it is stiff, clay marl or chalk where it is light, blending the whole well, paying 

 particular attention to removing the roots of the old trees and perennial weeds. Make 

 the fence good, and put the ditch in order. If this be winter's work take a root crop 



