100 



THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Cuttings of deciduous fruit trees should invariably be taken from well-matured wood 

 of the previous season's growth, and always before the sap commences rising in spring. 

 As a rule the end of October is a very good time, provided the bushes or trees have cast 

 their leaves. The cut ends then heal quickly, and the warmth in the soil facilitates the 

 rooting process. Small wood, well matured, is better than large and unripe portions ; but 

 extremes either way are not good, and the extreme ends of shoots should be rejected. 

 Cuttings should be about 10 inches in length, more or less according to kinds ; those of 

 currants and gooseberries merely require cutting just above and just below a bud, the 

 latter cut transversely, the former sloping away from the bud, and all the buds or eyes 



Fig. 15. PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



which would come below the soil must be carefully removed. If this is not done the bush 

 or'tree will give much trouble by throwing up suckers, and this, in the case of most kinds, 

 is a serious defect. The cuttings should be inserted firmly in good soil. A hot and dry 

 place is unsuitable, a shady spot overhung with trees even worse. An east or north border 

 answers well, but the cuttings must not be placed nearer a north wall or fence than a 

 yard and a half, as it is essential that after May the cuttings have sun for the solidi- 

 fication of their growths. All points considered, an open position, yet in a sheltered 

 situation, is as reliable as any. If the weather be dry, water should be given, but it is 

 rarely necessary. 



