i 4 8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



is greater harm done in that way than by waiting. If, however, the autumn be mild, 

 and the trees are carefully packed and kept moist, root and branch, lifting with a few 

 leaves at the extremities of the shoots is an advantage, as planting can then be done 

 whilst the soil is warm. Often the leaves on late growths do not fall, especially if the 

 autumn be mild, until frost, and it is better to cut off their unripe points, so as to facilitate 

 planting operations. Trees carefully lifted and planted early in the autumn usually 

 start into growth in spring almost as well as those that were not transplanted. 



Planting may be done satisfactorily in mild weather during the winter, when the 

 ground is in a free working state. If it be wet, as immediately following a thaw, it 

 kneads into a puddle and sticks to the tools and feet, a process more akin to tempering 

 material for making bricks than planting trees. A pasty medium is not fitted for the 

 roots, and it is much better to wait until the ground is in proper working order, or fairly 

 dry, than to plant in a puddle, the trees in the meantime being " laid in," or the roots 

 well covered with soil in a cool shaded place. Nor can planting be safely done during 

 sharp, drying winds, which are often prevalent in March, but there are mostly favourable 

 opportunities for the work from the middle of October to the beginning of April. 



Adjusting Roots and Branches. Some roots are always bruised and broken in trans- 

 plantation. Broken roots decay and invite fungi ; bruised roots engender canker. It is 

 better to cut them away to sound parts so that fresh healthy roots may be produced. 

 These are important to speedy recuperation. Pruning the roots acts similarly to pruning 

 branches, a greater number of fresh parts originating from the healed wounds. "When a 

 tree is taken up, the balance of force or equilibrium between the branches and roots is 

 destroyed. "When a tree has made strong growth, it will experience a considerable 

 check on the severance of its roots. It is placed in much the same condition for future 

 action as a man who is expected to do the same amount of hard work on less than half 

 the necessary food. The tree losing one-third or more of its roots in transplanting 

 will need a corresponding adjustment of the head, or it will make little or no 

 progress. 



Therefore, if the roots are few or much shortened the branches must be shortened still 

 more. A good time for doing this is when the buds commence swelling near the ends 

 of the branches in the spring. These stimulate sap movement, and cutting the shoots 

 back does not stop the flow, but concentrates its force on the fewest buds below, and 

 the growths from these are stronger in consequence. Young trees planted and cut back 

 in the autumn often grow well, but not always. Eetaining a fine top over meagre roots 



