172 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



trees they may be 4 to 6 inches asunder, and a plain line of guidance easily to be 

 remembered is this : the pruner should be able to place his open hand on the branches 

 between the clusters of spurs without touching any of them. To enable this to be 

 done some of the clusters may have to be removed entirely, and this may be effected 

 with a small pruning or " keyhole " saw, taking care to pare the wounds very smooth 

 with a sharp chisel or knife. Others may be shortened as indicated by the bars across 

 them in the illustration. Eeverting to the blossom buds in the figure ; those on the 

 right side may appear few, but when it is understood that each of these will produce 

 five or six flowers it becomes apparent that there are more than ample, and it must 

 also be equally apparent that those on the opposite side are four times too numerous, 

 and cannot be otherwise than exhausting to the tree. Thousands of fruit trees might 

 be greatly improved by thinning the spurs, a method of pruning that is far too commonly 

 neglected. 



Lifting Fruit Trees. This comes legitimately under the head of Pruning, for it is 

 a manipulation of the parts of a tree in the ground for improving the parts above it. 

 When trees make too robust growths unrestrainable by summer pruning, it is certain 

 that fruit buds will not form, nor the wood ripen, and the trees therefore become 

 unhealthy or unfruitful. The operation of lifting, though very simple, is very impor- 

 tant. It consists in taking out a trench a spade in width and depth at such a distance 

 from the stem as to intercept the long roots whilst preserving most of the fibrous ones. 

 The spade is then introduced under the tree so as to cut off all perpendicular roots more 

 distant from the surface than 12 to 15 inches, and to make sure that no roots remain 

 uncut, the tree may be lifted entirely. This, however, is scarcely necessary with young 

 trees, or advisable until a mass of fibrous roots is formed. The distance from the stem 

 at which to take out the circular trench depends on the age and size of the trees. A 

 tree planted two or three years from the maiden may have the trench taken out about 

 1 5 inches to 1 8 inches from the stem ; and in two or three years' time the distance 

 should be increased. Two feet from the stem suffices for all but the largest trees 

 subjected to restriction. It is always the safest to start well away from and work 

 towards the stem until the fibrous roots stay progress in that direction. In lifting large 

 trees an extra width of trench is an advantage, as will be found by the workmen. All 

 strong roots should be shortened, and the ends pared smooth. Make the soil firm 

 about them, working it amongst the fibres, and bringing these nearer to the surface. If 

 dry, give water thoroughly, but not if the soil be moist. Eegard, however, must be 



