IZ THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



usually inserted not more than 9 inches from the ground nor nearer it than 6 inches, in 

 July. In this instance it had been inserted 6 inches from the ground, and the distance 

 is suitable, as it allows sufficient space for surface dressings without burying the stock, 

 so that rooting from the scion (or bearing portion) is prevented, for trees are not better 

 under all circumstances on their own roots. Sometimes growths appear from latent buds 

 on the stock : these (u) must be rubbed off, and any lateral (v) irom the tree pinched at 

 the first leaf and subsequently. In autumn, or by early March, the maiden tree is headed 

 back to five buds (w). The following year a tree, indicated by N, is produced, having 

 four side shoots (x) and a leader (y). If side growths push from these have them 

 pinched at the first leaf, following this out through the season, and cutting them away 

 in the autumn below the first stopping. This will leave some small base buds scarcely 

 discernible, though they will ultimately form fruiting spurs. If the main branches 

 are irregular one stronger than another, the strong should be depressed, securing them 

 to stakes (a). Weaker growths should be raised. The leader is left 15 inches long at the 

 winter pruning, and the side shoots have the points removed, as shown, by the bars, 

 the lower branches being as long as the leader. This tree is in admirable condition for 

 removal, as indicated by the dotted lines. The object in all cases should be to obtain trees 

 with as many fibrous roots as possible, but as most purchasers like much for their 

 money, nurserymen often have to keep such trees another year. They are then quite 

 as good as represented at 0, namely, full branched and well furnished, with some fruit 

 spurs (b). Now if the spade in lifting is driven in at the dotted lines (c) there is a loss 

 of two-fifths of the roots, or if dug round it is possible such roots as d are broken off at 

 the fork 0, the equally important / being detached at g ; other mutilations may also 

 occur, so that when received the tree has as good as lost half its roots. It is better to 

 cut the roots towards their extremities with a sharp spade than to tear them 

 as above suggested. When a tree is taken up as advised it is not in the power of 

 man to retain all the fibres, and some must be left in the ground. Now turn to the 

 branches. These are long and many ; yet some persons advise leaving them unpruned 

 a year. The roots in their undisturbed state would certainly meet all demands of the 

 foliage. But when a tree is removed the roots, as is apparent, are of necessity reduced, 

 and cannot meet the demands of the tree with the branches unshortened. It may keep 

 alive after it is planted, and even put forth a few short growths in a moist season, but 

 through the evaporation from so much branch exposure during a dry summer, and 

 so few roots to maintain the supply, the tree may collapse. By shortening the branches 



