1110 



THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



\den-tree, pruned to half the length of the scion growth, root pruned and planted. 

 In spring shoots will push from the uppermost buds. The strongest must be retained as 

 a leader, securing it to a stake to prevent breakage, and when it has grown a foot, pinch 

 out its point. If this is effected by or before midsummer it will push again. Keserve the 

 strongest growth, training it upright, pinching the others to the third leaf. Shoots on 

 the previous year's wood treat similarly. The tree so treated will have in September the 

 appearance of the figure B. When leafless and winter-pruned it will be similar to 

 Cj sturdy and furnished with blossom buds on the two-year old wood. 



In late summer of the second year after planting we have a tree bearing a few fruits, 

 furnished more than two-thirds of its height with bearing wood, and a good continu- 

 ation of the extensions, the treatment exactly corresponding to that of the previous 

 year. This is represented in />, wherein the summer pruning is shown, and the 

 winter pruning is the same as that of the year previous. If the tree does not 

 make more than 12 inches of extension in each year, the midsummer stopping will not 

 be required, and the leader must be cut back to about a foot, a few buds more or less 

 not being of consequence, provided we make sure of a bud likely to push a good shoot. 

 Summer shortening the leader is, however, desirable for assisting the buds below the 

 stopping, and insuring their development into blossom buds the following season. 

 Under good management the tree will advance about 2 feet in height each year, unless 

 it shows undue precocity in bearing. After the first two or three years any excess of 

 vigour will be overcome by fruit production, or it can readily be restrained by lifting, 

 whereby fruit-fulness will be induced. The trees may be kept at 6 feet in height, or 

 allowed to grow to any altitude desired, the needful support being afforded by stakes, 

 trellises, or walls. Trees in this form may be planted 1 foot apart against walls, but 

 in the open they are best grown 18 inches asunder, and may be in -lines 4J feet apart, 

 trained to rails or wires 6 feet in height, thus presenting a fruiting surface four times 

 greater on the same space of ground than horizontal cordons. 



Although upright cordon trees may be planted 1 foot apart for covering walls and 

 ther opaque surfaces, it may be as well to point out the difference between the upright 

 and diagonal. In the trees F, page 23, the distance is 1 foot and the full height 6 feet. 

 The trees have reached the height of the trellis, and are growing vigorously. The 

 grower, to secure further extension, brings them down to the dotted diagonal lines and 

 gains 2 feet, or a length of 7 feet instead of 5 feet. This is satisfactory in one way, but 

 it cuts the other most disastrously, inasmuch as the trees in the diagonal lines are 



