5 8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



laterals, but form short-jointed firm wood, thorough exposure insuring its complete 

 maturation. When the leaves fall shorten the lower branches on each side of the 

 stem to 15 inches, and the upper two to 9 inches each. This and the disposal of the 

 branches are represented in C. 



The following season take two of the best shoots from each of the four branches) 

 training these eight leading growths equi- distantly, and lay-in young shoots between 

 them. One on each side of the several branches will usually be sufficient each year, 

 for there must be no overcrowding of the foliage, and any side growths that are not 

 wanted pinch to three leaves. Short stubby shoots of an inch or less with the leaves 

 disposed closely will be produced on the previous year's wood ; these are natural spurs 

 and must be preserved. With care in regulating the growths, so that the leases of one 



Fig. 21. TRAINING APRICOT TREES. 

 Reference : D, result of three primings. 



branch do not overhang those of the others, removing gross and stopping out-growing 

 shoots, the tree will be evenly balanced, the wood firm and well ripened to the points of 

 the shoots, and fruit-buds bristling in the axils of the leaves by the end of August, 

 under favourable conditions of soil and season. The tree, as it ought to be the first 

 summer after shortening the four main branches, is represented in D, Fig. 21. 



If a tree does not complete its growth by the third week in August, the points of 

 the shoots being sappy, a trench should be made as deep as the roots, one-third 

 the distance from the stem that the branches extend, leaving the trench open a fortnight, 

 then fill it in firmly. The soil inside the trench must, if necessary, be watered, and 

 shade afforded from bright sun to prevent severe flagging of the leaves. Directly the 

 leaves fall, lift the tree carefully, and replant it firmly. In apricot culture it is 



