96 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



another of soot, and half a peck of wood-ashes to every 3 bushels of compost, 

 thoroughly incorporating the whole. 



Culture in Pots and Tills. Commencing with a sucker in a small pot in late 

 February or early in March, shift it into an 8 or 9-inch pot, drained well, and pot 

 rather lightly. Give water sparingly till the roots reach the sides of the pot, then 

 copiously. Keep the plants in a stove temperature, and in the same pot for six to eight 

 weeks, then transfer to the fruiting-pot or tub. This should not be less than 2 feet, 

 and is better 3 feet in diameter at the top, not less than 2 feet deep, with four or five 

 holes, 1 inch in diameter, for drainage. Place the pot on four bricks clear of the aper- 

 tures. Cover each opening with a large crock or oyster-shell, add more large pieces of 

 pot to the depth of 4J inches, then add 1J inch of smaller crocks, all quite clean. 

 Oyster shells form excellent drainage. Place a layer of the rougher parts of the compost 

 on the drainage, introduce more, and press it moderately firm to the right level. The 

 plant should be so disposed that its upper roots will be covered with an inch of soil, 

 leaving 3 inches of space below the rim of the pot for water. If the soil be rather dry, 

 as it ought, afford a good watering at once, and repeat only when needed. The plant 

 will grow apace, and soon fill the pot with roots. Then supply liquid manure twice a 

 week, say 4 gallons each time, and the same quantity of water in the week. In hot 

 weather liquid will be required every day, less frequently in dull weather. By Sep- 

 tember a plant, say of M. Cavendishi, 8 to 10 feet high, should be produced, and by 

 keeping it dry for two or three weeks, it may throw out its flower spike. If so, and 

 before the first row of fruit is half developed, the watering and feeding must be 

 resumed, also a rich top-dressing afforded, and a varied stimulant given occasionally. By 

 Christinas the bunch of fruit will be well developed, and the pods commence ripening 

 in March ; then keep the plant rather dry at the roots and avoid wetting the fruit. 

 Thus bananas may be fruited in twelve months. 



A plant that has made a good growth in the preceding year, and rested during the 

 winter, should have the soil picked out from amongst the roots in February, and fresh 

 compost supplied, which will soon be occupied by greedy roots. Encourage these 

 by surface dressings, and sustain growth with stimulating liquids. In June the plant 

 thickens at the upper part of the stem, and when the spike bursts forth, water must be 

 kept from it. Directly the fruit is set, supply water abundantly and feed generously. 

 The fruit will ripen towards the end of summer. 



Beds for Planting. These afford the largest clusters and the finest fruits. The bed 



