CHERRIES TRAIXfXG. i* 7 



the side branches will not elongate beyond a few leaves. These may be spurs, and will 

 form blossom buds for fruiting another year. The temptation is strong to retain them all, 

 but that is not wise, because more are produced than there is ultimately room for; 

 therefore some of the growths ought to be rubbed off, leaving the shoots for stopping or 

 spurs about 4 inches apart, and removing all those on the side next the wall. This is 

 apt to be overlooked in the training of the young tree, and the consequences are the 

 branches are formed on the wrong side, and have to be cut away, or brought into 

 position at an acute angle when the tree is planted in its permanent place. Be careful to 

 retain no more growths than those absolutely necessary to form the framework of the 

 tree and furnish the branches with spurs. Keep the stem clean and the branches duly 

 provided, yet not overcrowded, with spurs. 



The tree marked for its third pruning is shown in C. The leader is shortened to 

 G inches, the upper side branches to 9 inches each, and the pinched growths are cut back 

 to an inch of their base. The lowest side branches, which have been forked, need not 

 be shortened, because they are the proper distance apart, and from their position will 

 push essential growths their entire length, consisting mainly of spurs, with an extension 

 shoot at the extremity of each. In the third season the tree will produce some fruit, 

 generally more than is represented in the illustration (Fig. 41), for fruit is generally 

 borne on the preceding year's wood. 



If the tree is intended for a low wall or espalier two growths only need be 

 encouraged from the leader, and two from each of the upper side branches and a 

 continuation growth from each of the four lowest branches. This is portrayed 

 in the right side of the tree, Fig. 41, the disbudding and stopping being identical 

 with those of the preceding season. If the tree, however, is intended for training 

 to a high wall, a leader must be encouraged, and this shortened to 12 inches at the 

 next winter pruning, as indicated by the line across the shadowed leader. Three growths 

 should be taken from the leader the following year, as shown in the dotted lines. The 

 other branches will not need shortening, for they will push growths vigorously, and two 

 should be encouraged from the extremity of each as required for covering the space 

 with branches at the proper distance apart. This is ample for furnishing the lower 

 part of the wall, and the upper part can easily be clothed by shortening the leader 

 for originating the requisite number of branches. It is usual by this method to train the 

 bottom pairs of branches horizontally, keeping these longer than the others as growth is 

 advancing, so that the entire wall or trellis space may be covered with fruitful wood, 



