i 3 8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Garden trees require very moderate manuring in winter, relying on summer mulching, 

 watering and feeding with liquid manure. When manuring is necessary, the ground 

 may be lightly pointed over in autumn after the leaves fall, scraping the soil off im- 

 mediately round the trees as far as the branches extend, then giving a dressing of 

 manure or rich compost, covering it with an inch or two of fresh soil taken from the 

 spaces between the trees, spreading that removed. Another plan, and excellent for all 

 descriptions of trees bearing profusely, is to spread some short manure, about two 

 barrow-loads to the square rod, on the surface early in winter and leave it there to decay. 



Artificial Manure. That given (Vol. I., page 55) for stone fruits may be employed 

 for the cherry, or the following : Steamed bone meal, 3 cwts. ; sulphate of potash, 1| cwt. ; 

 chloride of soda, f cwt. ; sulphate of magnesia, J cwt. ; and sulphate of lime, 5| cwts. ; 

 mixed, per acre. Apply the mixture in February, never later than the swelling of the 

 buds. If the trees crop heavily, apply 1 cwt. of nitrate of soda, per acre, soon after 

 the fruit is set. Garden trees are often given double the quantity named when pro- 

 ducing heavily, but it must be cautiously imitated in large cultures, using no more than 

 is essential to the maturing of the crops without their exhausting the trees. 



Lime may be applied occasionally as a top-dressing at the rate of 5 to 10 cwts. per 

 acre, in autumn or early spring. It is only necessary in soils where the trees are 

 productive of excessive wood and leaf growth. Gypsum, in setting free potash and 

 magnesia, absorbing and fixing ammonia, is useful in enabling the roots to find a better 

 supply of food. 



Thinning the Flower Buds. Bush, pyramid, cordon, espalier, and wall trees are often 

 crowded with blossom, much dropping without setting, and of the fruit apparently set 

 most, often all, is cast in stoning. Severely thinning the blossom buds when unfolding 

 favours a good set, prevents the fruit dropping, and enhances its size and quality. Half 

 or more of the blossom buds may often be removed with advantage, especially in the 

 case of trees that are "pictures of beauty " in spring, but usually cherryless in summer. 



Protecting Blossom. Trees on south or east walls, espalier, cordon, bush and pyramid 

 trees in early seasons and warm sites, are liable to have the blossom and young fruit 

 injured by spring frosts. Slight protection is all that is necessary. Wall trees are 

 easily protected as well as other forms described in the article " Protecting Blossom," 

 Vol. I., page 193. Coddling, however, must be avoided, for the cherry detests confined 

 moist air, and no more shelter should be used than is absolutely essential to the safety 

 of the blossom and embryo fruit. 



