158 THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



manured; indeed, with mulching, red currants can be grown on sandy soils where 

 black currants would not thrive well. 



Arrangement. Both red and white currants are sometimes arranged as single lines 

 to form boundaries or screens to vegetable quarters, where they bear abundantly, 

 provided the bushes have ample space for development. Pyramids may be planted 6 

 feet apart in borders by the sides of walks. Standard currants can be grown 6 to 9 feet 

 apart along the margins of paths, where they are both ornamental and useful, the ground 

 between them being available for low-growing crops, such as strawberries or salads. 

 Against walls or fences, trees may be planted at various distances, 9 inches to 1 foot for 

 single cordons ; 3 feet for upright trained trees with four branches. Bushes of free- 

 growing varieties in the open should be placed 6 feet asunder in rich soil. Due regard 

 must, however, be had to the habits of the varieties, affording the compact- growers 

 the least, and the vigorous kinds the most, space. All, as a rule, are planted much too 

 close for the production of heavy crops of fine fruit. Planting red and white currants is 

 the same in time and manner as described for black. 



Training. The bush form is that usually adopted with the red and white currants, 

 their propagation and early training being the same as that advised for the black 

 currant with a clean stem of 4 to 6 inches (Fig. 49, S, T, U, p. 154). The six-branched 

 bush, there marked for the second pruning, will in the third year push two shoots from 

 each branch, twelve in all. At the autumn pruning it must be decided whether the 

 bush is to be grown with six or more branches. In poor soil and where close planting 

 is practised, six branches will be sufficient, whilst in good soil and at a greater distance' 

 apart, nine to twelve branches may be left as leaders, equally placed around the stem. 

 The centre of each bush should be kept open. Any shoots that tend inwards or to cross 

 others should be cut out. The main branches ought not to be nearer each other than 

 about 9 inches ; they open out when producing fruit. The ends of the branches 

 should be shortened to between 6 and 9 inches at every winter pruning, until the 

 bushes have attained a height of 3 to 4 feet ; then shorten them more closely, eventually 

 leaving two or three buds only for extension. A number of side shoots push each year 

 from the main branches. These lateral growths may be topped in June to five or six 

 leaves, and if other growths issue, stop them at one leaf. At the winter pruning every 

 shoot not required for extension must be cut back to \ inch of its base, close to a bud, 

 for when a snag is left beyond the bud, water enters the pith and frost rends the shoot, 

 causing it to die back. 



