i8o 



THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



the tree unobstructed light, with free ventilation ; then the growths in the second year 

 will be stout, short-jointed, and well ripened, without pinching, as shown in T At the 

 end of the second season the tree will be suitable for planting against a wall or trellis. 

 After planting, the side shoots, if not more than 12 to 15 inches long, need not be 

 shortened, but should be brought down nearly horizontally, and the leader should be 

 cut back in autumn to about six joints, Fig. 56, T, c, full bar. 



Trees received from nurseries for covering walls and trellises often have several 

 shoots. Select the best placed and remove the others ; the chief points to aim at are 

 a clean stem, with three to five shoots radiating from it, evenly disposed and spread out 

 like the ribs of a fan. 



Fig. 57. FAN-TRAINED FIG TREE AGAINST WALL. 



References : e, leading shoot stopped at the bar/; shoots, the results of pinching g, upright ; h, side growths ; 

 i, spring originated side shoots, pinched at the barsj ; k, growths resultant of pinching ; I, continuations ; m, laid-in 

 growths ; n, stopped shoots. 



The tree having three branches when planted and being trained and pruned, as de- 

 scribed, from a cutting forward it will, in the third season, push three growths from the 

 central cut-back branch ; take one upright, and one on each side at an angle of about 

 45. When the leading shoot has made six good leaves, pinch off its point ; this gives 

 rise to three shoots ; train one upright and one on each side similar to those originated 

 in spring, pinching other growths at the first leaf, but rub off all foreright shoots. 

 The two side branches of the preceding year may push several shoots each. Train one 

 forward in continuation, spreading the others so as to cover the space evenly, but these 

 depressed branches often push growths down to the base, and the mistake is made in 



