FIGS GROWING IN POTS. 191 



any; then if the trees are kept healthy, and the wood is thoroughly matured, fig-buds will 

 form abundantly in the autumn, though they may be only just discernible, for furnishing 

 the first crop of ripe fruit in due season. The trees will become confirmed in that habit 

 the longer they are subjected to the treatment advised, and increase in productiveness 

 as they increase in age. 



Protecting the Fruit. When ripening, the fruit should be kept as dry as possible, and 

 safe from birds. "Wide eaves projecting from buildings, and glass copings on walls, 

 throw off much wet, while small birds and predatory insects may be excluded by 

 affixing hexagon netting in front of wall trees, and over the ventilators of houses. For 

 protecting the fruits on standard trees there is no better plan than enclosing each fruit in 

 a muslin bag secured to the branch ; this not only protects the fruit, but prevents its 

 falling to the ground. 



Gathering the Crops. This is best done when the fruit is cool, preferably in the 

 morning, and for home use only when well ripened. The fruit then is bent at the neck, 

 and droops a little, has a drop of juice at the eye, and the sides are cracked ; it is then 

 at its prime. Figs for packing should be gathered before they are dead ripe, and be 

 placed in a cool room a short time before being sent away carefully packed in boxes. 

 Figs are always best dished on their own leaves. 



Potted Trees. The fig succeeds well in pots, bearing fruit profusely under suitable 

 conditions. The desirability of a single clean stem has been referred to, as such trees 

 are more satisfactory than the low bush or many-stemmed trees. The first year the 

 plant from the cutting or eye may be pinched at 8 to 12 inches height; this will cause 

 three or more of the top buds to break, and when the shoots have grown about 4 inches 

 their points should be pinched off. If grown in heat and given every advantage as 

 regards feeding and light, the wood will be stout, short jointed, and firm by the autumn 

 for resting in the winter. If the trees are managed well they will be capable of bearing 

 fruit the following year, but when weak they should be cut back to about half the length 

 of the branches. Young trees not started into growth before March or April, and grown 

 at a distance from the glass, may take three years to form a foundation, by pinching the 

 growths when 4 to 6 inches long. Such trees should have all the shoots shortened to half 

 their length at the end of the third year, and the following summer ought to bear fruit. 

 The pruning of the tree in the third year is shown by the lines across the shoots in Fig. 61 

 (page 192), and it is kept compact by pinching, pruning being conducted on the lines laid 

 down under that head, and the larger the trees become the less will be the need of the knife. 



