a io THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



In a year from inserting the cutting, Fig. 63, /, a well-rooted bush with four or 

 more branches will be produced, as represented in J. If the variety be erect-growing 

 the four branches are to be shortened 6 inches from the base to outside buds. If the 

 bush have more than four branches, select that number of the strongest and best situated 

 for shortening to originate more branches, cutting the others to within an inch of their 

 origin. Shortening the four branches to the bars, as shown in </, has the effect of 

 doubling them in the next season, ai indicated by the dotted lines. This is essential 

 with erect-growing varieties, but those having pendulous growths need shortening to 

 buds pointing upwards, as shown by the bars in K y for the growths that follow will be 

 in the direction in which the buds point. If the buds point inwards the bush becomes 

 crowded in the centre ; if pointing downwards, the branches are formed too low ; and 

 the aim should be to keep the bush duly open and well clear of the ground. By 

 shortening the four branches eight are produced, inclining upwards, as indicated by 

 the dotted lines ; this is a great point to secure with the pendulous-growing varieties, 

 as the branches require to be well above the soil for keeping the fruit clean and admitting 

 air. The bush, JT, has produced a sucker, because the bud from which it proceeded had 

 not been extracted. This must be removed from its socket, for if cut off, and one or 

 more buds left, it will spring again, giving further trouble. A bush of an upright- 

 growing variety in the second year is shown in L. The branches of recently planted 

 trees will need shortening to 7 or 8 inches ; but bushes established a year only need to 

 have 2 or 3 inches cut off the weak ends of upright, or the curved tips of pendulous 

 growers. One foot, however, is a maximum length to leave ; therefore, shorten growths 

 that exceed a foot to that length in the autumn. During summer pinch any laterals 

 or side-shoots not required to 3 inches (^), and cut close in autumn (v). The bush 

 treated as advised will produce fruit freely in the third year, especially if the soil be 

 removed from the stem outwards down to the roots (#), supplying rich compost in its 

 place (#), covering it with a little fresh soil taken from the open spaces, exchanging it 

 for that removed. This is a capital plan for keeping gooseberries in health and fruitful- 

 ness, the loose surface (2) admitting air and rain freely, whilst the roots are fed with 

 sweet food. 



The Lancashire System. This is followed by those excelling in the production of 

 large gooseberries for prizes, and consists in transplanting one-year-old bushes with three 

 shoots only, bringing these down to nearly a horizontal position with hooked sticks 

 when they grow erect, and raising the pendulous with forked ones. Unless more than 



