in THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



base in autumn, and the leader to 1 foot. Pinch off the points of all side shoots after 

 they have made four good leaves. This plumps the basal buds without starting them 

 into growth, and if cut back to an inch in autumn ample buds are left for producing 

 fruit the following year. This is termed " spurring in." Naturally formed spurs are 

 short stubby growths studded with leaves and buds at their axils ; these are neither 

 pinched in summer nor shortened in winter. Continue the practice described until the 

 branches reach the limits, then all growths are manipulated as directed for side shoots. 

 The leading growths may first be secured to upright stakes, and eventually to cross 

 wires fixed to posts, or an iron-and-wire espalier may be erected at the commencement, 

 and straight pieces of wire fixed vertically across the wires where the cordons may 

 be desired. No. 8 galvanised wire answers well, and need only be temporary, the wire 

 coming in useful for other purposes. A little illustration will make the foregoing clear 

 to novices. 



To form a triple cordon the central branch a in the tree M, or p in the tree 0, Fig. 64 

 opposite is shortened two-thirds its length, and the side branches c about one- third, so 

 that the three branches are nearly equal in height. The central branch is the strongest, 

 and will continue so afterwards through the sap flowing most freely in upright channels. 



If a tree with four vertical branches be desired, two branches only are retained, as in 

 forming the double cordon, and, if sufficiently long, they are shortened to 13^ inches, 

 taking a shoot from each extremity and at 4J inches on each side of the stem in the 

 following year, rubbing off the rest, training the growths upright to form the four 

 branches at 9 inches apart. If the side branches are less than 1 3^ inches long, shorten 

 them to lower or upper buds as the variety is erect or pendulous, bringing them into 

 a horizontal position, as near as may be without breaking, and in the following year 

 reserve growths only from the extremities and at 4J inches on each side of the stem, 

 pinching the latter when 4 inches long, cutting them back in autumn to a well -situated 

 bud at their base, training the extremity growths their full length, and shortening them 

 to an upper bud in autumn 13 J inches from the stem. The following summer a growth 

 is taken upright from each extremity of the horizontals and one from each spur on 

 opposite sides of the stem, rubbing off the rest. Thus the tree has four branches ulti- 

 mately. Should a tree with six branches be required, the horizontals are shortened to 

 22^ inches in the autumn of the second year from the cutting, then treated as above 

 described. Single cordons (M, iV,) cover a given space in the shortest time, and are 

 very easy to manage. 



