298 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Indeed, all sub-laterals should be kept stopped to one leaf, as it commences to unfold, as 

 shown in Fig. 90, P, q (next page), in which four stoppings are indicated. If the bearing 

 shoots are a good distance apart, all the laterals (N, /) below the bunch, as well as 

 those above it, may remain to be pinched (N, e) ; but where they are likely to interfere 

 with the principal leaves they may be removed entirely to the bud at the base, except 

 two nearest the main rod (N, g). The basal buds indeed, all buds to which it 

 is intended to prune must be supported by the laterals that proceed from their side, 

 taking out their points and those of the sub-laterals that follow, as previously referred 

 to. The stopping of laterals should be done early, with the finger and thumb ; the sap 

 is then concentrated on parts where it will most benefit the grapes, also the vines for 

 the succeeding year's crop. The way to ruin vines is to let the growths interlace into 

 a thicket and then cut out large quantities at once. It is much better, if, through any 

 cause, growth extension becomes excessive, to proceed gradually with the thinning than 

 to remove armfuls at a time, and if the grapes are near ripening, the confused shoots 

 may be left until the grapes are quite ripe ; then the spray may be removed by little 

 and little until light reaches the wood for the maturation of the leaves and buds. 



Tying-down. This must begin before the shoots come into contact with the glass. 

 This is important, as those which touch the glass may be destroyed, and the crop for the 

 year lost by a single night's frost. Where the trellis is near the glass there is also 

 danger of losing a spur in consequence of the shoot being forced from its socket if drawn 

 down a little too far at the first tying ; therefore proceed with caution, only drawing the 

 shoots down sufficiently to prevent their reaching the glass again for the next few 

 days. They require daily watching to bring them into the required position without 

 mishap. It is necessary to go over the vines about three times, drawing the shoots 

 down a little every three or four days, and having them in position before the vines 

 come into flower. The evening is, perhaps, the most suitable time for doing this work. 

 In the morning the shoots are brittle, but with care they may be brought down, and 

 the sun toughens them so that they do not break. In the daytime the shoots are 

 limp and more readily tied, yet too great tension must not be put upon them in bringing 

 them down, for they become stiff at night, and in the morning some are perhaps 

 snapped or parted at the sockets. Judgment is necessary to tie vine shoots safely, and 

 the more vigorous they are the more careful must be the operator. Gros Guillaume, 

 Gros Maroc, Alicante, Trebbiano all the stiff or brittle-wooded kinds are the most 

 liable to snap or be forced from the sockets. Allow sufficient room in the ligatures 



