3 i2 THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



give enough to pass quite through to the drainage. Avoid extremes either way, sodden 

 soil being worse than a rather dry medium. Liquid manure is only necessary after the 

 pots become fully occupied with roots, and should not be given when the soil is dry. 

 Syringe the vines occasionally to free them from dust, and in the afternoon if there are 

 signs of red spider. Damping the house in the morning, at closing time, and in the 

 evening is the best method of providing a moist atmosphere. 



Training. Secure the canes loosely to stakes or the trellis as they advance. Stop the 

 laterals and sub-laterals to one leaf. Kemove tendrils. Stop the leader at G to 8 or 9 

 feet, according to the vigour and length of cane required. For treatment of laterals see 

 Fig. 86, A, page 277. 



Ripening the Growths. When the canes are becoming brown and the buds prominent 

 in August less water should be given and more air, but the leaves must not flag through 

 want of water. "When the wood is thoroughly firm and brown, and the leaves advanced 

 towards maturity, place the vines outdoors, standing the pots on a board or slates at the 

 foot of a south wall or fence, and secure the canes to the surface. Supply water only to 

 prevent the leaves becoming limp, and place waterproof material over the pots in wet 

 weather. Cut away the laterals to one joint, and in the course of a few days prune them 

 close to the cane, but without injuring the main leaves. When the leaves fall, shorten 

 the cane to the first plump bud below the stopping, or to the length required, dress all 

 cuts with best painter's knotting, and place the vines in a cool house from which frost 

 is barely excluded. This treatment applies to vines intended for early forcing, and they 

 should be pruned and rested six weeks at least before they are placed in heat. The 

 later vines may be continued under glass with abundance of air, only giving sufficient 

 water to keep the foliage healthy, and when the leaves show signs of maturing, shorten 

 the laterals gradually, and in the course of a week after the leaves fall shorten the canes 

 to plump unstarted buds. These vines need not be stood outdoors. They will be eligible 

 for starting early in December to supply ripe grapes in April. Some growers place the 

 vines outdoors to harden the wood, and protect the pots with dry material. They are 

 better placed under cover before the setting-in of severe weather. 



When vines are not required for early forcing, large and strong canes are produced 

 from " cut-backs " by shifting them a time or two more, say into 13 or 14-inch pots, or 

 even larger. Such vines ripen the canes in autumn, and afford fine fruit the following 

 year, while if not over-cropped, they may be fruited for several years. Mr. Rivers grows 

 excellent vines and crops by placing the pots on hot-water pipes. Good grapes may also 



